Courtiers of the time of Richard II. MS. Reg. 15 D. Ill, and MS. Harl. No. 1319.
COURTIERS OF THE TIME OF RICHARD II.
Anjou-Plantagenêt ruling dynasty
ABOVE all other periods in the history of England, that of the weak Richard II. was remarkable for the variety and gaiety of its fashions. The satirists and reformers of the day were zealous and loud in their outcries against the extravagance of the higher classes.
The Lady of the English on her visit to Winchester on 3rd March 1141. Matilda was given a formal welcome to Winchester and handed the keys to the treasury. Empress Matilda (also Empress Maude 1102 – 1167) was the first female regent of the kingdom of England, but was not crowned.
The Saxon Head-gear.— Banded Phrygian cap. Cloak.— Of blue cloth embroidered. Tunica.— Green cloth embroidered. Stockings.— Red cloth cross-gartered yellow. (Photographed direct from examples used in the Author’s lecture upon Mediaeval Costumes and Head-dresses.
Romantic fashion in the Reign of Philippe. 1830 to 1848.
Romantic era, German Biedermeier.
The Revolution of July, 1830 — Fashions in Louis Philippe’s reign — Microscopical bonnets, called “bibis,” “cabriolets” — Variety of caps — Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance — The stage — Historic costumes — Influence of Rachel, the actress — Greek and Roman fashions — Colours — Various designations of materials — Bedouin sleeves — Bonnets and head-dresses — Pamela bonnets — Novel eccentricities — Taglioni gowns, gathered “4 la Vierge,” laced “à la Niobe,” &c. — The “Sylvestrine” — Costumes to be worn on occasions of attempts on the king’s life — Bouquets for balls. Continue reading →
Fashion and Costumes of the The Second Republic. 1848 to 1851.
Tricoloured stuffs of 1848 — Girondin mantles — Open gowns — Summer dresses — Kasawecks and their derivatives — Beaver bonnets; velvet bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets — Cloches, Cornelia, Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks; mantles — Isly green — Opera cloaks — Numerous styles of dressing the hair: a la Marie Stuart, a la Valois, Leda, Proserpine, and Ceres — Marquise parasols — Jewellery — Straw bonnets — “Orleans” and “armure” — Work reticule or bag — “Chinas” — Pagoda sleeves — Waistcoats; basque bodices — New and economical canezous. Continue reading →
Louis XV (1710 – 1774) King of France and Navarre (Louis le bien aimé)
Fashion in the Reign of Louis XV. 1715 to 1774.
The Regency — War is declared against paniers — The Oratorian Duguet — Opinion of the “Journal de Verdun” — Various publications against paniers — Lines by Voltaire — Whale-fishery company — Paragraph from the “Journal de Barbier” — Mmes. Jaucourt, De Seine, Dlisle, Clairon, and Hus — Lines in praise of corsets — New bodices — Coloured prints are forbidden — “Perses” or “Persiennes” — Bagnolette – Adjuncts of dress: necklaces, ridicules, and poupottes—Contents of a patch-box — A sermon by Massillon – Les mouches de Massillon, or Massillon’s patches — Filles de Mode, Fashion-girls — Some passing fashions—Powder remains in fashion — “Monte-au-ciel” — Simply made gowns — The first cachemire. Continue reading →
Fashion in the Reigns of Henri IV. and Louis XIII. 1589 to 1643.
Table of Content
Universal mourning on the death of the Guises; intolerance of showy dress — Vertugadins, “espoitrement,” “corps espagnole” — Diversity of colours — The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d’Estrees and to the queen — Dress of Marguerite de France — Low-cut bodices — Head-dresses of hair — Various styles — Venetian slippers — Edicts of Louis XII. — Caricatures: “Pompe funèbre de la Mode” — Words and fashions — Ribbons or “galants” — Dress of widows — “Demi-ceint” girdles — Gloves of all sorts – Patches — Masks; their use — “Cache-laid” — The Frondeuses — Mme. de Longueville.Continue reading →
Fashion under the Reign of Henri III. 1574 to 1589.
Renaissance fashion in the Reign of Henri III. 1574 to 1589.
Table of Content
Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress — The wife of President N .— How both sexes evaded the edicts – Gowns from Milan — Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions —Rage for perfumes — Recognition of rank is demanded — Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish, ambassadors, and her costume at Blois — Brantôme’s opinion — Pointed bodices, puffed out sleeves, and “bourrelets” — Remarks on hair — Ridiculous dress of men — Poucet, the preacher — Satirical lines on Joyeuse — Witty remark of Pierre de I’Estoile — Starch used by Henri III. — Cushions.
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