Costume design by French couturier Marie-Louise Bruyère.
Marie-Louise Bruyère (1918-1958), called Mme Bruyère (pronounced Broo-yair) was born in rural France, but her ambitious parents, Henri Bruyère and Jeanne Loubet, moved the family to the expanding suburbs of Paris, where they prospered.
Costume design “Modèle Classicisme”
The sophisticated neighbourhood of Saint Gratien, which included Napoleon I’s niece, Princess Mathilde, amongst its residents, impressed the young designer who trained first with the house of Cheruit, and then Lanvin. Madame Jeanne Lanvin asked her to become Première d’Atelier de Couture. By 1928, she opened her own fashion house, Bruyère Couture, which flourished as her fame spread internationally, allowing her to open a grand salon at 22 Place Vendome in 1937. She staged two fashion shows a year, containing up to 200 different outfits in cool raffish elegance.
Costume design “Modèle Olympic”
Each outfit was assigned a different name. By 1947 she employed 328 people. The business continued to grow in scale and reputation, but from the mid 1950s it switched to producing prêt-a-porter outfits, and its name became increasingly eclipsed.
Dress and Mantle by Jeanne Lanvin. Le style parisien 1915.
Dress in marine “armare” trimmed with silk braids, collar in white corded silk. Hat by Lanvin. Mantle to match the dress. Hat turned up on one side and trimmed with breitschwantz. Clichés Style Pariasian.
Gallery: Le style parisien. Supplément du ” Style Parisian ” No 3. Le Directeur – Gérant: Lucien Vogel.
(Jeanne Lanvin). Frock in blue serge, foot of the skirt in velvet of a matching shade. This dress is slipped on like a chemise over under bodice with sleeves. It is split up at the sides as far as the hips over a foundation fastened to the skirt. Trimming of brown and red chain stitching mingled with gold threats. Buttons of blue coroso.
(Georges Dœuillet). Dress in woolen checks. Front of bodice, belt and border of the skirt in satin of the darkest shade of the checks.
(Madeleine Chéruit). Dress in woolen velvet striped in green and black with a blue stripe at intervals. On either side on the hips are two bundles of gathers sewn on up right peasant fashion. The bodice is lined with white taffetas likewise the collar which may be worn closed or open at will. The back is trimmed with a collar in marmot.
Gallery:Le style parisien. Planche XV. Supplément du ” Style Parisian ” No 3. Le Directeur – Gérant: Lucien Vogel.
Dresses by Jeanne Paquin and Martial and Armand. Le style parisien 1915.
Dress from Paquin`s see the back view Pl. XII-XIII Fig. 216 (second from right) and the description. Dress from Martial & Armand`s in pink corded silk, skirt draped at the side; blue, pink and white flowers.
Gallery:Le style parisien. Supplément du ” Style Parisian ” No 3. Le Directeur – Gérant: Lucien Vogel.
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