Byzantine Dalmatic, said to have belonged to Leo III., but probably dating from the Twelfth Century, preserved in the Treasury of St. Peter’s at Rome. Upon this garment, which is of dark-blue silk, are several designs embroidered in gold and colours. The most remarkable is one upon the front representing Christ in his glory. Seated upon a rainbow, with his feet upon two circles of fire and the right hand stretched out, he holds in his left the New Testament, which is open at the following passage: “Come unto me, ye chosen of my Father.” Above his head is seen the cross with the crowns of thorns. Around him is a choir of angels, the Virgin, the saints, David and Solomon, the bishops and the religious orders; below, to the right and to the left, St. John the Baptist, and Abraham receiving the souls of the just; above, on the two shoulders, Jesus is giving the Holy Communion to tho Apostles, the wine being administered on one side and the bread on the other.
French Fashion in the Middle Ages. Reigns of John II and of Charles V. 1350 to 1380.
Table of Content
The States of Languedoc – A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries – Low dresses – Saying of a mercer – Damoiselles – Garnaches and garde-corps – Le Parement des dames – Social distinctions – High character is worth more than gilded belt – Precious stones – The castles and other dwellings of the middle ages – Splendid furniture – Humble abodes of the poor – Evening assemblies. Continue reading →
Renaissance Fashion. Women`s Costume of German Nobility, 1450, 15th Century.
The left figure shows an unmarried woman, which is characterized by their uncovered hair. Her long hair is braided in some cases, combined with false hair pieces and decorated with a wreath of flowers.
Both women are wearing the round-cut cotta, or Gamurra with long, lush ornamental sleeves. The Gamurra was closely fitted top and highlighted the figure of the woman. The section was mostly kept around. The sleeves were richly decorated and fanciful, usually sewn only slightly and could be replaced. As material precious materials were used. Furs from Russia could be introduced by the brisk trade, the Italian textile manufacturers, provided the highest quality fabrics such as satin, gold-embroidered brocade, bright silks and velvets, patterned as a novelty. The movement, in such clothes, was slow and stylized. The colors dominated greens, reds and yellows.
Strengthened by the bourgeoisie in the cities of the Middle Ages, with its guilds, a sophisticated tailors’ guild was formed, which dominated the fashion required for this narrow, body-hugging cut.
Under the Gamurra dress the woman wore the loose-fitting Chemisse that set by the wide sleeves and round decorative cutouts, bright points and gave the richly decorated dress additional visual complexity. Popular were the embroidery of seams, especially at the neckline, different colors emerged.
Over the Camurra they carry Cioppa, a robe with ornate hem in bright, clear colors. The Cioppa worn belted high, with long sleeves and trim is made of a train. It is on this figure, the clothes edge, occupied houppelande, a fashionable decoration of the Middle Ages.
The right-married woman wears a head covering the sella, with a long veil.
Earliest times of the Carolingian period — Variety of costume in the provinces — Fashions in the Duchy of France — French taste dating from the eleventh century — Luxury increases with each generation — The dominical —The “bliaud” — Canes of apple-wood — Women in the twelfth century — Headdresses — “Afiche” — Serpent-tails — Pelisses — The thirteenth century — “Greves” and veils are in fashion — The “couvre-chef” in the fourteenth century — The skirt, or “cotte-hardie,” surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and “gauze” — Accessories — Emblazoned gowns — Various kinds of stuffs. Continue reading →
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