King and Knight. Dresses of ceremony.

Costumes, Middle ages, Knight, England King, 12th century, Henry shaw

King and Knight.

King and Knight. England 12th century.

Initial letter, middle ages manuscript

D-Intial Letter. MS. Arundel, No. 91

DRESSES of ceremony for solemn occasions, particularly with persons in exalted stations, suffer fewer changes in the course of time, than those in common use. Our plate represents a king- of the latter end of the twelfth century, dressed in his robes of state; but we may probably take it as a good example of the regal costume during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries.

Both the figures on the plate are taken from MS. Reg. 2 A. XX. The dress of the king in this drawing bears a close resemblance to that presented in the monumental effigies of this period. He is clad in the long dalmatica (or tunic), and the royal mantle; the latter thrown back loosely on the shoulders to exhibit the richness of the undergarment, with its jewelled collar and girdle. The dalmatica is here ornamented with fleurs-de-lis.

The dress and armour of the knight underwent much more frequent variations than those of the king. The one before us exhibits all the characteristics of a warrior of the age of Richard I.; and the crosses seem to show that he was a crusader. He is dressed in a coat and hood of mail; and wears over it a surcoat, probably of silk, ornamented with crosses.

This latter article of dress first makes its appearance about this time, and is supposed to have been brought from the east, its primary use having been to hinder the armour from being too much heated by the sun’s rays in a hot climate.

His legs are clad in the chausses, and the spur, a simple spike, is attached by a single strap of leather, and a buckle. Beneath the coat of mail, we see, over the chausses, the chausson, or breeches, an article of the knight’s dress which is less frequently represented in the old pictures. Even the ailet on the knight’s shoulder has here the form of a cross. The helmet, which appears to be held by his armour-bearer, is also of that flat-topped cylindrical form which came into fashion in the reign of Richard I.

The ventail, or aventaille, a moveable grating which protected the face in the hour of combat, is here represented as closed. At the period to which this figure belongs, the ventail was fixed by a hinge on one side and a pin on the other, and opened exactly in the same manner as a wicket; and as the hinge was moveable, it might be taken off at pleasure.

Norman conquest, Henry Shaw, weapon, shield, 12th century

Shield of narrow kite-like form. 12th century.

The shield of the knight is not given in the picture, but on this and the preceding page we give two shields from other sources. The first shield is taken from a MS. of the twelfth century, in the Royal Library at Paris; and is of that narrow kite-like form which prevailed from the time of the Norman conquest till at least the reign of Henry II. of England.

The form of the shield then underwent a gradual change very similar to that experienced by the gothic window at a later period; the bow became wider and wider, and the arch flatter, until at last it took the form which is still given to it in coats of arms. The shield at the bottom of the present page is copied from a sculpture on the portal of the cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres, executed in the twelfth century, and is much broader in shape, than the example given above.

Initial letter, middle ages manuscript

D-Intial Letter. MS. Arundel, No. 91

The Initial Letter is taken from MS. Arundel, No. 91 (in the British Museum), and belongs to the same period as the King and Knight.

Source: Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages by Henry Shaw F.S.A. London William Pickering 1843.

Related to:
Byzantine, Medieval, Gothic, Burgundian, Renaisance fashion history




Costume Milan Italie médiévale.
Costume Milan Italie médiévale du 14ème siècleNOBLE MILANAISE.Ce costume a été extrait... Read more
14th Century • Burgundian dress • Italy • Middle Ages • Nobility
Burgundian fashion period • Costumes historiques • Gothic costumes • Medieval costume
Henri d'Albret in 1527. French nobility. Renaissance era.
Henri d'Albret, 1503-1555, Grandfather From Henri IV in Renaissance clothing 1527.Henri d'Albre... Read more
1530 • 16th Century • Court dress • France • French Ancien Régime fashion • Middle Ages • Nobility • Renaissance
Medieval costume • Modes et Costumes Historiques • Renaissance era
Costumes of the 11th century. Monastic, Normanns, Crusaders.
Costumes of the 11th century. Monastic, Normanns, Crusaders Nobility costumes.Costumes during ... Read more
11th Century • Byzantine • Court dress • Ecclesiastical Dress • France • Germany • Middle Ages • Nobility
Byzantine fashion era • Gothic costumes • Knights • Monastic clothing • Münchener Bilderbogen
The Mitre of the bishop of Limerick, Ireland.
The Limerick Mitre. Dresses and Decorations of the Middle Ages by Henry ShawFROM a curiou... Read more
1410 • 15th Century • Ecclesiastical Dress • England • Headdresses • Middle Ages
Ecclesiastical Dress • Gothic costumes • Henry Shaw • Medieval costume
Lady of the French Court in Spanish fashion 1579.
Lady of the French Court in Spanish fashion. Reign of Charles IX 1579. "Modes et Costumes Histor... Read more
1580 • 16th Century • Court dress • France • French Ancien Régime fashion • Middle Ages • Modes et Costumes Historiques • Nobility • Renaissance
Renaissance era • Spanish Fashion
Middle Ages Fabrics design. 12th to 15th century fashion history.
Middle Ages Fabrics design. 12th to 15th century fashion history.L'histoire du costume féminin ... Read more
12th Century • 13th Century • 1420 • 14th Century • 15th Century • Accessoires • Fabric • France • French fashion history • Middle Ages
Burgundian fashion period • Gothic costumes • Medieval costume • Paul Louis de Giafferri
Medieval Franks dress of the 10th Century.
Medieval Franks dress of the 10th Century.Top row left: Frankish king and queen. Right: Frankish... Read more
10th Century • Carolingian • Ecclesiastical Dress • Middle Ages • Nobility
Crown • Medieval costume • Münchener Bilderbogen
English gentleman in the XIV Century in burgundian fashion.
English gentleman in the XIV Century in burgundian fashion. Costumes historiques de ville ou de t... Read more
14th Century • Burgundian dress • England • Middle Ages • Nobility
Beret • Burgundian fashion period • Cotta • Gothic costumes