Tag Archives: Millstone ruffs

Portrait of Lavinia Biglia by Juan Pantoja de la Cruz.

Baroque court dress. Elizabethan collar. Lady With the Ruff. 16th century fashion. Countess Pallavicino, Lavinia Biglia.

Portrait of Lavinia Biglia by Juan Pantoja de la Cruz.

Portrait of Lavinia Biglia by Juan Pantoja de la Cruz.

Portrait of a lady of the Pallavicini family. From the painting by Juan Pantoja de la Cruz 1553-1608. Elizabethan court dress. Queen Elizabeth Style of about 1530-1600 a special form of the so-called Tudor style (Renaissance costume period). Lavinia Biglia (Maid of honor of Spanish Queen Anne of Austria 1549-1580) was descended from the Milan branch of the ancient noble family of the Pallavicini. The Pallavicini are an ancient aristocratic family from Italy whose oldest line dates back to the 10th century. It was founded by originating from Germany Count Adalbert (Lineage adalbertino obertenga  which were also part of the Marquis of Massa, Corsica, Parodi, Lupis and Gavi.), whose wife, Adelhaid was related to the Roman emperors. Adalbert went to Italy, accompanied by the Emperor Otto II., Where he was settled in the valley of the Po, between Piacenza and Cremona in 981. The first Pallavicino fief was created by Oberto II, who received it from emperor Frederick Barbarossa in 1162. Albert the son of the Marquis Oberto I was called “Pelavicino” (perhaps not even joking nickname in reference to his rapacity). This nickname was hereinafter inherited by his descendants, becoming the surname of the family in the form Pallavicino (or Pallavicini). The grandson William, who died in 1217, was the progenitor of all the notes of the branch so-called ‘Lombardo’, which emerged from grandchildren Oberto II,. The Pallavicini family spread as time goes on, and reached Bavaria, Austria (Czech Republic) and Hungary.

Portrait of Claudia of Etruria 17th century

Claudia of Etruria. Claudia de' Medici, Baroque clothing Spanish fashion. Nobility court dress. барокко костюм

Claudia of Etruria (Claudia de’ Medici)

Portrait of Claudia of Etruria * 1604 -1648.

Claudia of Etruria was the daughter of Ferdinand I., Grand Duke of the same name. She became the wife of Leopold, Archduke of Austria. The costume is extremely remarkable, and the goffered ruff, from the middle of which the head of the Archduchess seems to rise, is a marvellous pièce of needle- work. 17th century baroque period, spanish fashion.

*Claudia de’ Medici daughter of Ferdinando I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany and Christina of Lorraine.

Baroque costume of a Swiss godmother 1680.

Switzerland Baroque fashion costume recherche. 17th century clothing Swiss godmother .

Swiss godmother 1680

Swiss godmother on the way to Baptism 17th century.

Costume of a Swiss godmother in the Baroque period on the way to Baptism.

Swiss bourgeois councilor in 1680.

Swiss bourgeois 17th century clothing. Switzerland Baroque costume recherche

Swiss bourgeois councilor in 1680

Swiss bourgeois councilor in 1680.

Swiss baroque costume of a bourgeois councilor. With epee, Spanish ruff, jerkin, buckled shoes and allonge wig.

 

Swiss doctor in official costume to the Baroque period

Swiss doctor in official costume. Switzerland Baroque costume recherche. 17th century fashion clothing

Swiss doctor in the clothes of 1690

Swiss doctor in official costume to the Baroque period at the end of the 17th century.

He wears a powdered allonge wig, waistcoat, juste corps worn open, buckled shoes, sword. The hat is out of fashion and corresponds to an earlier decade. Rhinegraves pants decorated with ribbons. Lace trim on the shirt sleeves. A large collar, the millstone ruff, leftover of Spanish fashion.

Official Swiss garb of a teacher in the Baroque period

Official Swiss garb of a teacher. Switzerland Baroque costume recherche. 17th century fashion.

Swiss baroque costume of a schoolmaster 1690

Official Swiss garb of a teacher in the Baroque period, 17th century.

 

German Nobility fashion in 1570. Court dress 16th century.

German Nobility Baroque and Renaissance costumes. The Spanish fashion and court dress. Costume Designer ideas and research

German Nobility in court dress 1570

German Nobility fashion in 1570, 16th century.

Late Renaissance in the transition to the Counter-Reformation. Early Modernism, age of humanism. The Spanish fashion.

The man is wearing the typical, short, loose-fitting coat, called the Spanish cape, loose over his shoulders. This, a waist-length, quilted jacket with slit sleeves, which was called “goose belly”. A carefully pleated ruff, which is in the form of late no longer attached to the doublet, but is worn as a standalone fashion utensil. At this size, the shape of the collar was produced by wires and stiff linen, silk. High set Harem pants with a padded waist. Buckled shoes and stockings. On his head a little beret, a full beard. For this purpose, a long rapier.

The woman is in stiff corset bodice with drop waist. The narrow sleeves and collar are also completed by ruffles cuffs. The shoulders are padded bead. The style is worn high. She wears a Stuart hat, decorated with fine lace. The skirt is floor length and a short-term novelty at that time, in the form of the bustle or the later barrel Verdugado (guardians of virtue), bulked. She wears like the man a large ruff.

The cervical collar (also Fraise, millstone ruff) evolved as part of the clothing in the 16th Century from the the small fabric ruffle at the drawstring neck  pulled in frilly collar. The ruff was usually emerge from white linen, with a curling iron tubular romped (pipe collar) and partly very expansive (hence millstone collar). Especially under the influence of Spanish fashion the the Frill is an integral part of the clothing for both men and women.

The Spanish fashion in 16th century.

Spanish Renaissance costumes. Spanish fashion and court dress. Costume Design ideas and research

French Nobility in 1570.

Spanish fashion at the French court in 1570

French nobility in court dress, 16th century. Renaissance era.

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Official costume of a Swiss judge or lawyers.

Official costume of a Swiss judge. Switzerland Baroque fashion costume recherche. 17th century clothing

Swiss lawyer 1680

Official costume of a Swiss judge or lawyers in the Baroque period 17th century.

The man is dressed in a justaucorps (Souquenille), a waistcoat, Rhinegraves pants (vaste rhingrave), buckled shoes, the Spanish collar, on the side a rapier, the sleeves of the shirt are fringed with lace, an allonge wig and tricorn hat.

Related Gallery: Costumes suisses des 22 cantons. Dessinés d’apres nature et lithographiés et coloriées, par Yves Grether.  Paris chez Wild, Èditeur 1860.

Related Gallery: Swiss national costumes from 1896

Switzerland bridesmaid 17th century.

Switzerland Baroque fashion costume recherche. 17th century clothing Swiss bridesmaid. Traditional Switzerland national costumes.

Swiss bridesmaid 1680

Switzerland bridesmaid 17th century.

Swiss suit or traditional costume of a bridesmaid in the Baroque period 1680.

 

French nobleman and nobelwoman 1550. French Court Dress

French Renaissance costumes. 16th century fashion

French nobleman and nobelwoman 1550.

French nobleman and nobelwoman 1550. French Court Dress 16th century.

The nobleman wears a typical element of the Spanish fashion, the short, loose-fitting cloak, called the Spanish Cape. This was not buttoned and was loose over her shoulders.
This he wears a waist-length, quilted jacket with a mandarin collar, which was called “goose belly”. It was closed by a central row of buttons. The sleeves are occupied by frill sleeves.
Harem pants with a padded waist high set. Buckled shoes and stockings. On his head a little beret and a beard. A long iron spike completes the appearance.
The nobel woman is in stiff corset bodice with drop waist. The narrow sleeves and collar are also completed by ruffles cuffs. The shoulders are padded bead. The style is worn high. The skirt is floor length and richly decorated. Forward it will be kept open so that the cone-shaped, stiff petticoat, which is also decorated emerges. This was the forerunner of the crinoline (Farthingale, Vertugado, Hoop skirt). A headdress she wears an ornate bead cap, called Escoffion.
She wears under the long skirt the Kothurne that shoes are made of wood or cork. The folds of the dress are over with hot iron and wire into shape.

The Spanish fashion. Late Renaissance costumes in the transition to the Counter-Reformation, early Baroque period.