Costume Fashion History – gender – public space – visual culture

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The page is divided into articles on specific topics, blog posts, and galleries. At the individual contributions is mostly a link set to the associated gallery.  Enjoy*

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A selection of the latest blog posts:

NYMPHS AND MERVEILLEUSES.

French revolution fashion. French 18th century costumes. Nymphs and merveilleuses. Octave Uzanne

Nymphs and merveilleuses.

The Frenchwoman of the century; fashions – manners – usages, by Octave Uzanne. Louis-Octave Uzanne (1851-1931; pseudonyms: Jehan You Guet​​, La Cagoule, Louis de Villotte) was a French writer, bibliophile and publisher of precious books. In the illustration of which he edited for an elite circle of bibliophiles books helped him as artist Félicien Rops, Paul Avril, Félix Vallotton and Albert Robida. In the chapter entitled, Nymphs and Merveilleuses, the author outlines meticulous the fashion, the behavior of the youth that fill the social changes accompanying terror of the French Revolution, with dancing and incredible new freedoms.

The book, The Frenchwoman of the century, describes in several chapters, the period between the French Revolution and the restoration of the Bourbon monarchy from 1815 to 1830. In between are the brief years of the Empire under Napoleon Bonaparte. In England the fashion of the Regency prevails which influenced French fashion after the revolution in a high degree. See also the Gallery of the Fashion of N. Heidelhoff. Read here the second chapter of the book:  Nymphs and Merveilleuses.

THE GALLERY OF FASHION by Nicholas von Heideloff

England Georgian and early regency period costumes and fashion

Detail evening dresses. October 1796.

First vintage of the famous English fashion magazine, THE GALLERY OF FASHION. Edited by Nicholas von Heideloff, London.  First released April 1794. It is considered one of the finest in the history of fashion magazines. In the following, the galleries are displayed as images overview.
Gallery of Fashion Vol. 1,. April 1794 To March 1795.
Gallery of Fashion Vol. 2,. April 1795 To March 1796.
Gallery of Fashion Vol. 3,. April 1796 To March 1797.

To get to the descriptions of the individual costumes please use this link: Costume Descriptions

England Evening Dress. The Gallery of Fashion March 1796.
England Evening Dress, March 1796. FIG. XC. Turban of orange-coloured satin; gold and silver spangled bandeau; the hair (with or without powder) drawn through in different parts of the turban; the hind hair turned up short and plain, the ends ret... Read more
The Gallery of Fashion October 1795. Evening Vauxhall Dresses.
The Gallery of Fashion October 1795. Evening Vauxhall Dresses. FIG. LXXII. The front and side hair dressed into a variety of small and large curls; the hind hair turned up into a large plain chignon. Azure blue satin bonnet, lined with yellow, an... Read more
England Morning Dresses April 1795. Heideloff`s Gallery of Fashion.
England Morning Dresses April 1795. Heideloff`s Gallery of Fashion. FIG. XLVIII. The hair dressed in ringlets. Chiffonet, arranged into the form of a turban, of white taffeta. spotted with silver; the end trimmed with a silver fringe, falling upo... Read more

Serbs on the Adriatic. Their types and costumes. Released 1870-1878

Traditional Serbian National Costumes. Folk Costumes from Karloba Croatia.

The Serbs in the Adriatic.

Costumes of Serbs in the Adriatic, was issued in monthly published books from a German publisher. Therein in excellent artistic technique the traditional costumes of the old Austrian Habsburg empire, at the intersection of the Ottoman Empire. In particular, the Serb population along the coast of the Adriatic Sea. Croatia, Serbia, Monte Negro. Showing not only the costumes but also the environment of the former Mediterranean agricultural landscape with its picturesque locations.

Creators: Ludwig Salvator *, Peter Maixner, Emil Lauffer and Guido Manes (Kvido Mánes). * Ludwig Salvator, Archduke of Austria (1847-1915), Prince of Tuscany.

We look forward to the first part of the book, Sketches Illustrative of the Manners and Costumes of France, Switzerland and Italy from 1821.

The book was written in a time of great social change. The major European nation-states were in the process of profound social change. The industrialization began and threw the first shadow on the traditional methods of production. The dictum of the nobility for centuries prescribed dress code was finally gained strength over the bourgeoisie. Even before the French Revolution, under the influence of the writings of Jean Jack Rousseau, August Wilhelm Schlegel, Johann Gottlieb Fichte, Voltaire, Diderot, Friedrich Wilhelm Joseph Schelling, “…nature and spirit form a unit”, began a turn to the natural. Now be seen in the colonial peoples not only uncultured savages but alternative, partly democratic cultures that lived in harmony with nature. More than that, in the ideal state of a paradisiacal innocence were. The label of the noble savage finds its precipitation. For this, the Greco-Roman style of dress was quoted as symbolized a certain equality of civil objects. Note it to the article: French directory fashion. Paris after the Revolution 1796-1800. Pioneered this fashion were called Incrojables and Merveilleuses, 1795 to about 1800 during the French Directory. Their spiritual heritage led dandies like Beau Brummell, Eugène Sue, George Sand, Lord Byron, Hermann Pückler-Muskau, later on Oskar Wilde, Charles Baudelaire,  just to name a few, in extravagant and perfected, especially stylish heights.  What a century ago almost exclusively the privilege of members of the nobility, artists and writers was (“The Grand Tour”) to take an educational trip to the classical roots of the West, Italy, Greece, the Middle East with special Egypt, became a must for the upper middle class. It was fashionable at least an educational trip to these places to complete. The wealth of travel literature of the time testifies to that. The turn to natural, after the French Revolution, consequently also left a new perspective on the habits and customs of the common people arise. They were no longer as primitive and uneducated but rather as unspoiled and authentic. The publishers of those times were in demand for illustrated travelogues, consciously striving for the educated middle class, and also participated financially in these early reports of today’s ubiquitous travel journalism. Before this, outlined in broad strokes historical background, this present book could arise. (automated translation)

Vintage Children Costumes from Germany 1935.

The contents of this collection are original girls costumes drawings from the 40′s in Germany. As much material from those German epoch is hard to find, usually stored in archives, sometimes auctions or garage sale. We are pleased to show you this rare historic drawings.



THE
 COSTUME OF TURKEY. Ottoman Empire Costume in 1800.

In over thirty colored illustrated drawings in detail and unpretentious a cross section of Ottoman society is presented. It allows a first insight into the internal organization of the Ottoman Empire. Shown are dignitaries and their position as well as ordinary citizens. The book was published in 1802 in London.

Turkish Woman costume with child. Ottoman Empire.
Turkish Woman costume with child. Ottoman Empire. From the Book: Manners, customs and costumes o... Read more
Nobel woman costume from Turkey, Ottoman Empire 1843.
Nobel woman costume from Turkey, Ottoman Empire 1843. From the Book: Manners, customs and costum... Read more
Costume Iman of Turkey, Ottoman Empire 1843.
Costume Iman of Turkey, Ottoman Empire 1843. From the Book: Manners, customs and costumes of all... Read more

NOTHNG, says the Chevalier D’Ohsson in his valuable inquiry concerning the Ottoman Empire ought to be considered as more interesting than an acquaintance with different nations. Their religion, their history, their manners, and their customs, are worthy of the attention of every one. The more considerable a nation is in itself, the more connections it has with others, the more important its political situation, the more it deserves to be known, both by its neighbours, and those countries connected with its government or commerce. … Read More

Traditional Clothing of Asia. With a focus on India, Japan and China.

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Paris fashion – Art deco period 1922

Les Créations Parisiennes. French Art Deco Fashion. 1920s. Flapper Costumes

Les Créations Parisiennes.

Les “Chapeaux du Très Parisien” 1921 Vol.1
Les “Chapeaux du Très Parisien” 1921 Vol.2

Les Collections de la rue de la Paix. Chapeaux Nouveaux.

See here an overview of the hat models of the First and Second Edition, including the original introduction, of the famous Paris magazine, Les “Chapeaux du Très Parisien”  from the 1920′s. Read More

Paris Art deco period 1929

“Les créations parisiennes. La mode est un art”.
Editors: Maggy Rouff and Germaine Lecomte.
Published: Paris 1929.

(Costume Description in French) 

 

Costume and Fashion history during the “Middle Ages”

Middle ages tournament. Knights in Armor. Renaissance soldiers.

Knights jousting tournament

Reign of Charlemagne – The women of the tenth century wear two tunics – Gothic period – A veil is obligatory – Charles the Bald – Agnes Sorel  - The Escoffion – The “hennin” gains the victory – Knights, Crusaders, Tournaments – The Court – Burgundian period 

Century:  9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th,

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The Ancient Costume History:

The Egyptian, The Greeks, The Romans, The Asiatics (Persian, Assyrian, Medes)

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HISTORY OF THE INDIAN TRIBES WITH BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES AND ANECDOTES OF THE PRINCIPAL CHIEFS.

Gallery: History of the Indian Tribes of North America or Descriptions