ABOVE all other periods in the history of England, that of the weak Richard II. was remarkable for the variety and gaiety of its fashions. The satirists and reformers of the day were zealous and loud in their outcries against the extravagance of the higher classes.
Fashion history. England from 1154 to 1216. Anjou-Plantagenêt ruling dynasty. HENRY II, 1154-1189; RICHARD I., 1189-1199; AND JOHN, 1199-1216.
Content: The Norman Period William the Conqueror, 1066-1087. by Mrs. Charles H. Ashdown.
The Saxon costume period, c. 460 to 1066 With the advent of this period we leave to a certain extent the region of conjecture, and enter within the bounds of… Read More
During the Wars of the Roses, Henry was the last survivor of the House of Lancaster and became its head. Through his marriage to the heiress of the House of York Elizabeth Plantagenet, England hoped for an end to the civil war between the two houses and a lasting peace.
The Revolution of July, 1830 — Fashions in Louis Philippe’s reign — Microscopical bonnets, called “bibis,” “cabriolets” — Variety of caps — Fashions of the Middle Ages and of the Renaissance — The stage — Historic costumes — Influence of Rachel, the actress — Greek and Roman fashions — Colours — Various designations of materials — Bedouin sleeves — Bonnets and head-dresses — Pamela bonnets — Novel eccentricities — Taglioni gowns, gathered “4 la Vierge,” laced “à la Niobe,” &c. — The “Sylvestrine” — Costumes to be worn on occasions of attempts on the king’s life — Bouquets for balls.
Importation of foreign fashions in 1815 — White dresses, white feathers, and fleurs de lys — Emigrant ladies — Russian toques — Male and female dressmakers — Ruchings — Short sleeves and long gloves — Herbault’s bonnets — “Chefs” — Anglomania in 1815 — Green gauze veils; spencers — The “canezou”— Lacroix, the stay-maker — Dr. Pelletan and Charles X. — Wasps — The “Ourika” fashions — The famous leg-of-mutton sleeves — Fashions “a l’Ipsiboé,” “au Trocadéro,” and “à la Dame Blanche” — Blonde caps and turbans — Head-dresses — Fashions “à la giraffe;” “the last sigh of Jocko” — Female book-keepers; shopwomen — The Cafe des Mille-Colonnes.
Fashions under the First Empire — Sacks — “Personnes cossues” — A saying of Napoleon’s – White gowns — Valenciennes lace — Ball dresses; walking dresses — Polish “toquets” and bonnets — Turbans — Muslins — Artificial flowers — Wenzel’s manufactory; “The Offspring of Imposture,” Campenon’s verses — Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace Vernet — Stays — Cashmeres — Protest by Piis — Ternaux assists in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls in France — Cotton stuffs — Richard Lenoir; importance of the Rouen manufacture — Violets during the Hundred Days — The “eighteen folds,” and white silk.
Tricoloured stuffs of 1848 — Girondin mantles — Open gowns — Summer dresses — Kasawecks and their derivatives — Beaver bonnets; velvet bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets — Cloches, Cornelia, Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks; mantles — Isly green — Opera cloaks — Numerous styles of dressing the hair: a la Marie Stuart, a la Valois, Leda, Proserpine, and Ceres — Marquise parasols — Jewellery — Straw bonnets — “Orleans” and “armure” — Work reticule or bag — “Chinas” — Pagoda sleeves — Waistcoats; basque bodices — New and economical canezous.
Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel — Tunics and boulgètes — “Mavors” and “Palla” — Cleanliness of the Gallic women — The froth of beer or kourou — The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment — The stola — Refinement of elegance — Extravagant luxury of women — Artificial aids — A vestiaire or wardrobe-room of the period — Shoes — Jewels and ornaments — The amber and crystal ball — Influence of the barbarians.
