Claire Avery. Vogue Cover 1917.

Claire Avery, American, designer,
Claire Avery. Vogue Cover 1917

CLAIRE AVERY

Feminism in art is rarely more completely illustrated than in the charming circular panel from a cover of Vogue on the over leaf. When women first came into art and the art schools began to fill with girls about the time when the word stenographer ceased to indicate a man clerk and became a synonym for young woman, the members of the weaker sex (that irritating phrase) could not resist a tendency to work in heavy masses, over-thick lines and general splash and dash, to show that they were not merely man’s equal but his superior; to prove to the universe that they could Ije not only as strong and as bold in art as he, but that they could go him one better. All this has passed and now woman is quite content and even proud to be herself.

Miss Avery’s cover is not only a good cover but it is com- pletely feminine, so much so that, as extremes meet, it is almost masculine in its appreciation of the piquant young person who is having breakfast in bed with her black kitten, also having breakfast in bed. An original note is the dark mass back of the head and taste and decorative ingenuity are shown in all the details. The little drawing on this page from another issue of Vogue has distinction. It is also coloristic; we are apt to forget what a beautiful color black can be.

Miss Avery is from New York State, learned her trade at Pratt Institute and the Art Students’ League, and now lives in New York City. She has done some work for Marshall Field & Co., Chicago, but at present is drawing for Vogue.

Note:  Costume designs for "The Bonds of Interest", 1924.

Source: Some examples of the work of American designers by Dill & Collins Co; Joseph Moore Bowles (1865-1934). Philadelphia : Dill & Collins Co. 1918.

Illustration, damasks, ornament

Auguste Racinet. The Costume History by Françoise Tétart-Vittu.

Racinet's Costume History is an invaluable reference for students, designers, artists, illustrators, and historians; and a rich source of inspiration for anyone with an interest in clothing and style. Originally published in France between 1876 and 1888, Auguste Racinet’s Le Costume historique was in its day the most wide-ranging and incisive study of clothing ever attempted.

Covering the world history of costume, dress, and style from antiquity through to the end of the 19th century, the six volume work remains completely unique in its scope and detail. “Some books just scream out to be bought; this is one of them.” ― Vogue.com

The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World Paperback – December 7, 2021
by Virginia Postrel (Author)

From Neanderthal string to 3D knitting, an “expansive” global history that highlights “how textiles truly changed the world” (Wall Street Journal)


FASHIONPEDIA
Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

FASHIONPEDIA is a visual fashion dictionary covering all the technical terms from style to material to production with illustrations and infographics. It encompasses rich, extensive information and yet is easy to read. Whether you are an industry insider or a fashion connoisseur, FASHIONPEDIA is all you will ever need to navigate the fashion scene.


Textilepedia. The Complete Fabric Guide.

The Textile Manual is an encyclopaedia of textile information, from material to yarn, from fabric structure to the finishing process. Encompassing practical tips for a range of textiles and detailed visuals, this ultra-accessible manual is the perfect companion for fashion aficionados and aspiring fashion designers.


Literature

Couture: then and now Clothes define people. A person's clothing, whether it's a sari, kimono, or business suit, is an essential key to his or her culture, class, personality, or even religion. The Kyoto Costume Institute recognizes the importance of understanding clothing sociologically, historically, and artistically.