The Entry of Louis XIV and Maria Theresa into Arras 1667
With the beginning of the 17th century, there was widespread resistance to the rigid Spanish fashion. The quest for freedom and naturalness expressed itself in clothing fashion at the time of the Thirty Years’ War.
The traditional costume was given its character by the Thirty Years’ War, which also shaped fashion. High leather boots reaching over the knees, usually left in their natural colour, with teeth or laces at the edges and large spurs on wide leather, often covering the whole foot, were decisive.
In addition came the floppy hat, a soft felt hat with a wide brim in the front, on the side, at the back or in two places beaten up brim and decorated with one or more feathers, a skirt now reaching further down, over it in the form of the latter same collar made of leather, a broad lace collar covering the shoulders, as well as a sword worn on a broad Vandelier.
This costume was a bit degenerate for the ducks; especially the high boots were turned over at the forend above or below the knee (boots with cuff boots), so that the trousers were visible, or the boots were pushed down so far.
During the war, these clothes were worn not only by mercenaries and soldiers in Germany, but also by the educated men. In England and the Netherlands, the new fashion was also gradually gaining acceptance, although in a refined form.
During these decades, the women wore a wrinkled dress with smooth, narrow sleeves, a small bodice with hanging sleeves, lace cuffs on the dress, a collar or lace collar, a feather adorned felt hat with folded brim.
17th century costumes and fashion.
Françoise Marguerite de Sévigné (1646-1705), comtesse de Grignan, daughter of Madame de Sévigne circa 1669. Current location Carnavalet Museum.
Algernon Percy, 10. Earl of Northumberland, 1602 – 1668 by Anthony van Dyck.
Thomas Howard, 21st earl of Aurundel, 1st Earl of Norfolk. 1585 – 1646. Portrait by Anthony van Dyck
Oliver Cromwell. Lord Protector of England, Scotland and Ireland.
George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham 1592 – 1628.
George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham 1628.
Costume in the reign of James II., 1685
Cour de Versailles, Louis XIV, 1690
Noblewoman and Lord. 18th century.
Knight of St. Louis fashion. Reign of Louis XIV
Timpanist and Drummer on Horse. 17th century.
Boutique. Marchande de Jouets. XVIIe siècle
Extrait d’un ouvrage de 1625, dessine par Jean-Pierre de Vermes.
Costume de Seigneur et de Dames. Apres l’édit de réforme 1633.
Cureur de puits. Vendeur d’Huitres. Marchand de Vinaigre. Règne de Louis XIII, fils de Henri IV et de Marie de Médicis. Tirés des types de Paris.
Le Maréchal de Souvré. M. de Bellegarde, Grand Écuyer e France. M. de Pluvinel, Maitre d’Équitation de Louis XIII. (1610-1643).
REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII 1559 TO 1643.
Gentilhomme conduisant une Mariée de Campagne (1636). Louis XIII Créant un Chevalier du Saint-Esprit (1633).
Prime Carriages under Louis XIII. 17th Century.
Shops at Galerie du Palais de Justice. 17th century.
Jean-François de La Harpe (1739 – 1803) was a French poet and critic.
Anne d’Autriche 1601 – 1666. From 1643 to 1651, as the mother of the still underage Louis XIV., Regent of France..
Madame de de Montespan (Françoise-Athénaïs de Rochechouart de Mortemart, Marquise de Montespan 1640 – 1707). Mistress of Louis XIV.
Louis-Alexandre de Bourbon, comte de Toulouse 1678 – 1737. (Louis Alexandre, Count of Toulouse, Duke of Damville, Penthièvre, Châteauvillain and Rambouillet, was a natural, legitimated son of Louis XIV. with Françoise-Athénaïs de Rochechouart de Mortemart, marquise de Montespan.
Louis XIV., 1638 – 1715 called “the Sun King” was from 1643 until his death King of France and Navarre. Louis XIV. is considered as classic representative of courtly absolutism. The guiding principle of absolutism, L’État, c’est moi! (The State is me!)
Marquise de Montespan Mistress of Louis XIV
Seigneur. Règne de Louis XIV. XVIIe siècle.
Charles I of England. King and Martyr.
King James I of England
Mousquetaire. Officer and Musketeer of the French Guard
Mousquetaire. Officer of the Palace Guard, Infantry Officer.
King Charles I of England in 1624
Élisabeth Charlotte d’Orléans 1676 – 1744. Daughter of Duke Philipp I of Orléans with his second wife Princess Elisabeth Charlotte (Liselotte), daughter of the Elector Charles Louis I. of the Palatinate.
Seigneur. Vers la fin du XVIIe Siècle. D’après Chevignard.
Dress of the commonality, 1630.
Louis XIV. court dresses
German man of rank in the garb 1670-1680
Dutch lute player around 1635
Denmark Christian IV in Baroque costume in 1640.
Christian IV of Denmark around 1625
Christian IV of Denmark around 1630
Gentilhomme, Règne De Louis XIII, d´après Bosse, 1642
Grand Dame du temps de Louis XIV
Louis XIII à cheval. D’après une gravure de 1615. Dessin de Chevignard.
Seigneur, Règne De Louis XIII, d´après Bosse, 1633
Page. Cour de Louis XIII., 1630.
Epoque de Louis XIII
Costume du temps de Louis XIII.
Gaston d’Orléans, né a Fontainebleau le 25 Avril 1608, Chef des Armées sous Louis XIII.
Polish lady costume in 17th century.
Cour de Louis XIII., 1630.
Mousquetaire. Cour de Louis XIII., 1630.
Costume at the court of Louis XIII.
Lord from the time of King Louis XIV
French woman 17th century. Louis XIV
Mrs. Anne Turner. Executed Nov. 15th 1615
Shoe with moveable patten 17th century
Large buckled shoe worn in the reign of Queen Anne, 17th century
Lady Mary Mordaunt’s yellow silk shoe, 17th century
Lady Mary Mordaunt’s black silk shoe, 17th century
Miss Langley’s Shoe, 17th century
Siamese Dress worn at the Court of Louis XIV.
Fancy Costumes of the Time of Louis XIV.
Marie de’ Medici, Queen of France (1573-1642).
Court dress during the boyhood of Louis XIII
Henry Prince of Wales, 1612.
Lady Arabella Stuart, 1615.
Elisabeth, Queen of Bohemia, Daughter of James the First, 1662.
Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton 1614
George Digby, Earl of Bristol 1677
Charles Howard, First Earl of Nottingham 1624
King Charles the First 1648
Frances Howard, Duchess of Richmond 1639
William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke 1630.
James, Duke of Hamilton 1649
Mary Sidney. Countess of Pembroke 1621.
Philip Herbert. Earl of Pembroke & Montgomery 1650
James Marquis of Hamilton 1624
English fashion in the 17th Century.
Fashion end of the 17th and early 18th Century.
German costumes 17th Century.
Strasbourg clothes in 17th Century.
German soldiers 17th century
17th century French Costumes
Costumes in the 17th Century
Holland, Bohemia, Spain, England. 16th and 17th century costumes
English Baroque fashion in the 16th and 17th century.
16th and 17th century. Ecclesiastical robes.
Netherlands costumes first third 17th century.
German and French nobility, 17th century
French and Netherlands costumes 17th century
Colonial Costumes. 17th to 18th century
Élisabeth of France (1602–1644). Coiffure Henry IV.
Duchesse du Maine (1676-1753) Coiffure Louis XIV.
Duchesse de Bourgogne (1685-1712). Coiffure Louis XV.
Madame de Maintenon (1635-1719). Coiffure Louis XIV.
Ninon de Lenclos (1620-1705). Coiffure Louis XIV.
Anne of Austria (1601–1666). Coiffure Louis XIII.
Maria de’ Medici (1575 –1642). Coiffure Henri IV.
French Silk fabric 17th century
Textile design Louis XIV epoch. 17th century.
French fabric 17th century
French silk design fabric 17th century.
Armament in the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648)
17th Century Helmet. Venetian manufactures.
In the time of Louis XIV France gained dominance in Europe after the Thirty Years’ War from around 1670. It became a leader in science and art, and the Versailles court also set the tone for almost all countries in custom and fashion.
In the beginning, women were dominated by puffy skirts, loose shoulders, wide sleeves and fluttering curls. Men wore a wrinkled skirt with a cape over an open doublet, while the leg dresses took on the shape of the skirt trousers, the so-called Rhinegrave trousers.
In the following years fashion became increasingly pathetic. The main feature of this development was the powerful allonge wig of the men. The clothing also became increasingly stiffer.
The men now wore a knee-length, in the waist close fitting, mostly collarless skirt (Justaucorps) with wide cuffs and patted side pockets; in addition, the bound scarf with short ends, the trousers tied underneath the knee joint, the triple-opened, spring-loaded hat, as well as the shoes with a tapering heel, buckle and flap at the bottom.
The elegant lady wore the Manteau, an upper dress that swarmed at the back and fell down as a train. For example, heavy gold and silver brocades became fashionable fabrics. Deep necklines let the waist slide down. In order to keep the décolleté free, the hairstyle, held by ribbons, in contrast, aspired upwards. This so-called Fontange was the female counterpart to the allon wig of the gentlemen. It was attributed to the Duchess of Fontanges, a mistress of Louis XIV, and remained so until the beginning of the 18th century.