Court Lady’s Full Dress in the Heian Period

Court Lady’s Full Dress in the Heian Period

by Annie Shepley Omori.

The figure was drawn for the purpose of showing the details of dress and therefore gives no indication of the grace and elegance of the costume as worn.

It shows the red karaginu, or over-garment; the dark-green robe trimmed with folds, called the uchigi; the saishi, or head-ornament, in this case of gold but sometimes of silver; the unlined under-garment of thin silk; the red hakama, or divided skirt; and the train of white silk painted or stained in colors.

From Kokushi Daijiten, by kind permission of Mr. H. Yoshikawa.

Source: Diaries of court ladies of old Japan by Annie Shepley Omori (1856 – 1943), tr; Doi, Kochi. Boston Houghton Mifflin, 1920.

The Heian Period (Japanese 平安時代, Heian-jidai), spanning from 794 to 1185, is a significant era in Japanese history known for its cultural blossoming and political developments. Named after the capital city of Heian-kyo (now Kyoto), this period marked a transition from the earlier Nara Period and laid the foundations for a distinct Japanese identity.

Beginning in 794, the Heian Period saw the establishment of a court culture that emphasized literature, the fine arts, and philosophy. One of the most notable events during this time was the introduction of the kana syllabary, which allowed for the creation of more sophisticated poetry and prose. The Tale of Genji, written by Murasaki Shikibu, emerged as one of the world’s first novels, showcasing the depth of Heian literature.

As the period progressed, Japan witnessed growing tensions between the imperial court and the powerful noble families, such as the Fujiwara clan. By the late Heian Period, the decline of central authority led to the rise of the samurai class and feudalism. This shift laid the groundwork for the subsequent Kamakura Period.

The Heian Period thus represents a complex tapestry of art, literature, and political changes, marking the transition from classical to medieval Japan.

red, sun, Japan, Mon, Nisshōki, Hinomaru


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