The Ahuula, a Hawaiian feather cloak. The Steen Bille Cape.

Ahuula, ʻahuʻula, capel, Hawaii, Hawaiian, feather, cloak
The Ahuula, a Hawaiian feather cloak. The Steen Bille Cape.

The Steen Bille Cape. Copenhagen.

The beautiful yellow and green feather cape mentioned in the Report of a Journey Around the World in 1896 as very interesting but on that visit inaccessible for close examination or measurement, was on a second visit in 1912, put most obligingly in our hands for examination as mentioned in the report of that visit and it has seemed best to reproduce the illustration which was from a photograph kindly sent by Dr. Sophus Muller the distinguished antiquarian and ethnologist, Director of the Nationalmuseet in Copenhagen. We were used to the fading of these feather Ahuula in the bright light of the tropics, but were surprised to see that even here the fading was evident since the previous visit.

The measurements are as follow: extreme breadth 36 inches; depth of back 18 inches, of front 12 inches. Red and black spots on the front edges and neck; the crescents and semicrescents are of dark green (Hemignathus procerus, Cab.?) or on (Psittirostra psittacea, species of Hawaiian honeycreeper). The bird from which the feathers came is uncertain as the olive green has faded and without the bird for comparison the exact color is doubtful.

In the color plate made from the photograph sent, with the original color restored as nearly as possible, this beautiful cape may be seen.

The ʻahuʻula is a feather coat reserved for the elite of the Hawaiian archipelago. It was traditionally worn with the mahiole, a feathered cap.

The Ahuula (ʻahuʻula), Hawaiian feather cloaks and the mahiole, Hawaiian feather helmets, are symbols reserved for the men of the aliʻi, that is to say the ruling class of the Hawaiian archipelago. They are made from a woven net and the feathers of two birds endemic to the islands; the red iiwi or scarlet honeycreeper and the Hawaiian ‘O’o (Moho nobilis, now extinct).

Note:  Brasses at Boughton Malherbe, Kent, England 16th c..

Source: Hawaiian Feather Work. Memoirs of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum. Honolulu, H. I: Bishop Museum Press 1918

Related

Leave a Reply


Auguste Racinet. The Costume History by Françoise Tétart-Vittu.

Racinet's Costume History is an invaluable reference for students, designers, artists, illustrators, and historians; and a rich source of inspiration for anyone with an interest in clothing and style. Originally published in France between 1876 and 1888, Auguste Racinet’s Le Costume historique was in its day the most wide-ranging and incisive study of clothing ever attempted.

Covering the world history of costume, dress, and style from antiquity through to the end of the 19th century, the six volume work remains completely unique in its scope and detail. “Some books just scream out to be bought; this is one of them.” ― Vogue.com

The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World Paperback – December 7, 2021
by Virginia Postrel (Author)

From Neanderthal string to 3D knitting, an “expansive” global history that highlights “how textiles truly changed the world” (Wall Street Journal)


FASHIONPEDIA
Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

FASHIONPEDIA is a visual fashion dictionary covering all the technical terms from style to material to production with illustrations and infographics. It encompasses rich, extensive information and yet is easy to read. Whether you are an industry insider or a fashion connoisseur, FASHIONPEDIA is all you will ever need to navigate the fashion scene.


Textilepedia. The Complete Fabric Guide.

The Textile Manual is an encyclopaedia of textile information, from material to yarn, from fabric structure to the finishing process. Encompassing practical tips for a range of textiles and detailed visuals, this ultra-accessible manual is the perfect companion for fashion aficionados and aspiring fashion designers.


Literature

Couture: then and now Clothes define people. A person's clothing, whether it's a sari, kimono, or business suit, is an essential key to his or her culture, class, personality, or even religion. The Kyoto Costume Institute recognizes the importance of understanding clothing sociologically, historically, and artistically.