Courtly gallantry. Fashion of the Middle Ages in the 12th and 13th century.

Courtly, gallantry, Auguste Racinet, Middle ages, Civil, military, costumes,
Europe. Middle ages. Civil and military costumes.

6, 7, 1,
3, 2,
4, 5, 8, 9,

EUROPA. MIDDLE AGES. CIVIL AND MILITARY COSTUMES.

Fashion of the Middle Ages in the 12th and 13th century. Courtly gallantry. Pointed shoes. Knights and armament. Helmets, crest.

The fighter group no. 1 and the figures 2, 3, 4, 5 are reproduced after watercolours, which A. Dauvergne based on murals in the castle of Saint Floret in Auvergne, dating from the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th century. The watercolours belong to the French artist. Ministry of Education.

The numbers 6, 7, 8, 9 are borrowed from an Italian manuscript of the National Library in Paris “The Novel of St. Graal” (Ms. 6964).
Courtly gallantry. The two figures 6 and 7 are characteristic examples of the costume in the middle of the 14th century, the so-called “narrow costume”, which, coming from France, spread over Italy and Germany and remained the dominant one throughout the century.

The custom of shearing off one’s beard appeared at the end of the 12th century, while the fashion of pointed shoes appeared already at the end of the 11th century to persist, with a brief interruption, until the end of the 15th century, after which it degenerated into the greatest extravagance.

The Lord’s tightly fitting doublet with “hanging belt” is embroidered with red hearts, which of course had a symbolic meaning in the age of courtly gallantry. As the scene of our miniature takes place in the house, the gentleman has taken off the wooden sandals that were worn under the tights in the street. How the shape of the pointed shoes or stockings was recorded even in the armour is shown by knight no. 8, who wears the form of the potted helmet with a red helmet cover and a fish as a crest, which at that time was only used in tournaments.

Note:  14th century medieval pointed toe shoe style.

The lower hem of the helmet cover is knotted. The figure No. 3 with the jagged collar can already be regarded as a forerunner of the so-called “Zaddeltracht”, which of course only found its systematic training towards the end of the 14th century. The pointed helmets of the sword and lance fighters No. 1, 4, 5 and of the knight No. 2 are already equipped with full face protection.

Source: History of the costume in chronological development by Auguste Racinet. Edited by Adolf Rosenberg. Berlin 1888.

Related

Leave a Reply


Auguste Racinet. The Costume History by Françoise Tétart-Vittu.

Racinet's Costume History is an invaluable reference for students, designers, artists, illustrators, and historians; and a rich source of inspiration for anyone with an interest in clothing and style. Originally published in France between 1876 and 1888, Auguste Racinet’s Le Costume historique was in its day the most wide-ranging and incisive study of clothing ever attempted.

Covering the world history of costume, dress, and style from antiquity through to the end of the 19th century, the six volume work remains completely unique in its scope and detail. “Some books just scream out to be bought; this is one of them.” ― Vogue.com

The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World Paperback – December 7, 2021
by Virginia Postrel (Author)

From Neanderthal string to 3D knitting, an “expansive” global history that highlights “how textiles truly changed the world” (Wall Street Journal)


FASHIONPEDIA
Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

FASHIONPEDIA is a visual fashion dictionary covering all the technical terms from style to material to production with illustrations and infographics. It encompasses rich, extensive information and yet is easy to read. Whether you are an industry insider or a fashion connoisseur, FASHIONPEDIA is all you will ever need to navigate the fashion scene.


Textilepedia. The Complete Fabric Guide.

The Textile Manual is an encyclopaedia of textile information, from material to yarn, from fabric structure to the finishing process. Encompassing practical tips for a range of textiles and detailed visuals, this ultra-accessible manual is the perfect companion for fashion aficionados and aspiring fashion designers.