Tag: Augustin Challamel

The History of female fashion in France. The Dress of Women from the Gallo-Roman Period to the Present Time. Published 1874 by Augustin Challamel. Jean Baptiste Marius Augustin Challamel 1818–1894 was a French historian. (Histoire de la mode en France; la toilette des femmes depuis l’époque gallo-romaine jusqu’à nos jours.)

Fashion in the Reign of Henri III. 1574 to 1589. Spanish court dress.

Fahion history, Renaissance, Spanish court dress, 16th century

Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress — The wife of President N .— How both sexes evaded the edicts – Gowns from Milan — Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions —Rage for perfumes — Recognition of rank is demanded — Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish, ambassadors, and her costume at Blois — Brantôme’s opinion — Pointed bodices, puffed out sleeves, and “bourrelets” — Remarks on hair — Ridiculous dress of men — Poucet, the preacher — Satirical lines on Joyeuse — Witty remark of Pierre de I’Estoile — Starch used by Henri III. — Cushions.

Fashion under the Reign of Charles IX. 1560 to 1574.

Fahion history, Renaissance, Spanish court dress, 16th century

The wars of religion — The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France — Effects of the expeditions into Italy — Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable — A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents — Effeminate style of dress — Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display — Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws — Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters — Wedding dresses — Observations of a Venetian ambassador — “Corps piqué” — Drawers—Pain — Cosmetics — Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors — Court dresses — “Arcelets.”

Fashion under the Reign of Francis II. 1559 to 1560.

Fashion, history, Renaissance, Spanish, court dress, Francis II

The earliest queens of fashion — Mary Stuart’s costumes; her jewels — Description of bodices and sleeves of that period — Crosses — The “loup” or small mask — Coiffure “en raquette” — An anecdote concerning high heels — Regulations respecting fashion — Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress — Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549 — Maximum of marriage portions — The first knitted silk stockings.

Fashion under the Reign of Henry II. 1547 to 1558.

Renaissance, fashion history, 16th century

Fashions under Henry II. — The ruff — A satirical print of the time —Catherine de Médicis eats soup — The Italian taste — Regulations for dress — Crimson — Who shall wear silk? — Lines on velvet, by Ronsard — Rotond — ” Collet monté ” — Spring-water — Style of gowns and head-dresses — Wired sleeves — Girdles — Caps, bonnets, and hoods — The ” touret de nez ” — The ” coffin à roupies ” — Shoes — A quotation from Rabelais.

Fashion under the Reigns of Charles VIII 1483 to 1498. Louis XII 1498 to 1515.

Medieval, fashion history, France

Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI. – “La grand gorre,“ or sumptuosity – The “troussoire” – Allegorical and moral costumes – Trains – Head-dresses —”Collets rebrassés ” – Wigs and false hair — Some results of the war in Italy – Italian fashions — “Sollerets” and slippers – Gorgets – Garters – Jean Marot writes against novelties – Anne of Brittany – Pins – Menot “the golden-tongued” – A Parisian in the time of Louis XII. – Coat à I’ltalienne – Manufacture of stuffs.

Reign of Philip III and Louis VIII. The influence of the Crusaders.

Jerusalem, Crusade, Crusader, middle ages

Severity of feminine costume – Long gowns and gimps – Marguerite of Provence – “Fermaux” – Reappearance of splendor in dress – Eastern customs – The priests of fashion – Haberdashery and peacock-feathers – Female embroiderers – Taste for embroidery – Continual temptations – Earliest sumptuary laws – Furs – St. Louis’s opinion on dress – Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife – Crépine.

Reign of Charles VI and Charles VII. Charles VII and Louis XI.

History, Fashion, France, Middle ages, costumes, hennin, gothic

Taste in dress becomes purer – Heart-shaped head-covering, the “cornette,” and the “hennin ” in the reign of Charles VI – Husbands complain – Preachers denounce – Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention – Brother Richard tries to reform it – The “hennin” gains the victory – Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon – “Escoffion” – An absurd figure – Gravouère – Isabeau de Bavière – Gorgiasetès – Tripes – Splendour of the court – Agnes Sorel – “Coiffe adournée”; diamonds; the carcan – Walkingsticks.

The Carolingian fashion period 752-987. Reign of Charlemagne.

Carolingian, Capetian, costumes, fashion, history, middle ages,

Reign of Charlemagne – The women of the tenth century wear two tunics – Judith’s belt – A veil is obligatory – Miniatures in the Mazarin Library- Charles the Bald’s Bible Shoes – Dress of Queen Lutgarde – Dress of Rotrude and Bertha – Gisla and other kings women of the Emperor – The Successors of Charlemagne – Cannes – Adelaide of Vermandois – The dress of widows.

The French Republic. The fashions of the Directory.

French, Republic, fashion, costumes, modes

The year 1789 – Masculine style of dress – The double dress vainshes – Caps “à la grand prêtresse”, “à la pierrot” and “à la laitière – The “pouf” bonnet – Paint and powder disappear – Prediction by the Cabinet des Modes – Anonymous caps – Cap “à la Charlotte Corday d’Armont” – Trinkets “à la Bastille” – Stéphanie Félicité du Crest de Saint’ locket – Cap “à la Bastille” – Federal uniforms – Claims to equality in dress – Reaction under the Directory – “Incroyables” and “Merveilleuses” – Coiffures “à la victime” and “à la Titus” – blond wigs and black wigs – The Hòtel Thélusson – Which is the most ridiculous? – Mme. Tallien’s costume – Epigram on bonnets “à la folie” – Reticules – Transparent dresses – Lines by Despréaux.