Tag: Augustin Challamel

The History of female fashion in France. The Dress of Women from the Gallo-Roman Period to the Present Time. Published 1874 by Augustin Challamel. Jean Baptiste Marius Augustin Challamel 1818–1894 was a French historian. (Histoire de la mode en France; la toilette des femmes depuis l’époque gallo-romaine jusqu’à nos jours.)

Fashion in the Reign of Henri III. 1574 to 1589. Spanish court dress.

2/15/15
by world4
Fahion history, Renaissance, Spanish court dress, 16th century

Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress — The wife of President N .— How both sexes evaded the edicts – Gowns from Milan — Mixture of masculine and feminine fashions —Rage for perfumes — Recognition of rank is demanded — Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish, ambassadors, and her costume at Blois — Brantôme’s opinion — Pointed bodices, puffed out sleeves, and “bourrelets” — Remarks on hair — Ridiculous dress of men — Poucet, the preacher — Satirical lines on Joyeuse — Witty remark of Pierre de I’Estoile — Starch used by Henri III. — Cushions.

Fashion under the Reign of Charles IX. 1560 to 1574.

7/7/14
by world4
Fahion history, Renaissance, Spanish court dress, 16th century

The wars of religion — The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France — Effects of the expeditions into Italy — Articles from Venice and Genoa are very fashionable — A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents — Effeminate style of dress — Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display — Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws — Women of high rank, bourgeoises, widows, and spinsters — Wedding dresses — Observations of a Venetian ambassador — “Corps piqué” — Drawers—Pain — Cosmetics — Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors — Court dresses — “Arcelets.”

Fashion under the Reign of Francis II. 1559 to 1560.

6/27/14
by world4
Fashion, history, Renaissance, Spanish, court dress, Francis II

The earliest queens of fashion — Mary Stuart’s costumes; her jewels — Description of bodices and sleeves of that period — Crosses — The “loup” or small mask — Coiffure “en raquette” — An anecdote concerning high heels — Regulations respecting fashion — Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in dress — Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549 — Maximum of marriage portions — The first knitted silk stockings.

Fashion under the Reign of Henry II. 1547 to 1558.

6/25/14
by world4
Renaissance, fashion history, 16th century

Fashions under Henry II. — The ruff — A satirical print of the time —Catherine de Médicis eats soup — The Italian taste — Regulations for dress — Crimson — Who shall wear silk? — Lines on velvet, by Ronsard — Rotond — ” Collet monté ” — Spring-water — Style of gowns and head-dresses — Wired sleeves — Girdles — Caps, bonnets, and hoods — The ” touret de nez ” — The ” coffin à roupies ” — Shoes — A quotation from Rabelais.

Fashion under the Reigns of Charles VIII 1483 to 1498. Louis XII 1498 to 1515.

6/16/14
by world4
Medieval, fashion history, France

Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI. – “La grand gorre,“ or sumptuosity – The “troussoire” – Allegorical and moral costumes – Trains – Head-dresses —”Collets rebrassés ” – Wigs and false hair — Some results of the war in Italy – Italian fashions — “Sollerets” and slippers – Gorgets – Garters – Jean Marot writes against novelties – Anne of Brittany – Pins – Menot “the golden-tongued” – A Parisian in the time of Louis XII. – Coat à I’ltalienne – Manufacture of stuffs.

Reign of Philip III and Louis VIII. The influence of the Crusaders.

10/9/13
by world4
Jerusalem, Crusade, Crusader, middle ages

Severity of feminine costume – Long gowns and gimps – Marguerite of Provence – “Fermaux” – Reappearance of splendor in dress – Eastern customs – The priests of fashion – Haberdashery and peacock-feathers – Female embroiderers – Taste for embroidery – Continual temptations – Earliest sumptuary laws – Furs – St. Louis’s opinion on dress – Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife – Crépine.

Reign of Charles VI and Charles VII. Charles VII and Louis XI.

4/3/13
by world4
History, Fashion, France, Middle ages, costumes, hennin, gothic

Taste in dress becomes purer – Heart-shaped head-covering, the “cornette,” and the “hennin ” in the reign of Charles VI – Husbands complain – Preachers denounce – Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention – Brother Richard tries to reform it – The “hennin” gains the victory – Costume of Jeanne de Bourbon – “Escoffion” – An absurd figure – Gravouère – Isabeau de Bavière – Gorgiasetès – Tripes – Splendour of the court – Agnes Sorel – “Coiffe adournée”; diamonds; the carcan – Walkingsticks.

The Carolingian fashion period 752-987. Reign of Charlemagne.

4/3/13
by world4
Carolingian, Capetian, costumes, fashion, history, middle ages,

Reign of Charlemagne – The women of the tenth century wear two tunics – Judith’s belt – A veil is obligatory – Miniatures in the Mazarin Library- Charles the Bald’s Bible Shoes – Dress of Queen Lutgarde – Dress of Rotrude and Bertha – Gisla and other kings women of the Emperor – The Successors of Charlemagne – Cannes – Adelaide of Vermandois – The dress of widows.

The French Republic. The fashions of the Directory.

3/18/13
by world4
French, Republic, fashion, costumes, modes

The year 1789 – Masculine style of dress – The double dress vainshes – Caps “à la grand prêtresse”, “à la pierrot” and “à la laitière – The “pouf” bonnet – Paint and powder disappear – Prediction by the Cabinet des Modes – Anonymous caps – Cap “à la Charlotte Corday d’Armont” – Trinkets “à la Bastille” – Stéphanie Félicité du Crest de Saint’ locket – Cap “à la Bastille” – Federal uniforms – Claims to equality in dress – Reaction under the Directory – “Incroyables” and “Merveilleuses” – Coiffures “à la victime” and “à la Titus” – blond wigs and black wigs – The Hòtel Thélusson – Which is the most ridiculous? – Mme. Tallien’s costume – Epigram on bonnets “à la folie” – Reticules – Transparent dresses – Lines by Despréaux.