French Renaissance Costumes. History of Fashion. Reign of Francis the First
Fashion under the Reign of FRANCIS I. 1515 to 1545.
(French Renaissance costume period.)
The court of Francis I. — A speech of Charles V. — The king’s liberality — Order of the Cordelière — Word paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais — Costumes of the seasons — Feather fans Sunshades — The ” hoche-plis ” or vertugadin — Mme. de Tressan saves her cousin’s life — Satires and songs — Mdlle. de Lacépède — “Contenances” — Silk shoes with slashes — Head-dress called a “passe-filon” — Increase of love of dress — The bean flower — Artistic head-dresses — Twists of hair called ratraprenades — Ferronières—Coaches in Paris ; their influence on the fashions.
Late Renaissance in the transition to the Counter-Reformation. Early Modernism, age of humanism. The Spanish fashion.
The man is wearing the typical, short, loose-fitting coat, called the Spanish cape, loose over his shoulders. This, a waist-length, quilted jacket with slit sleeves, which was called “goose belly”. A carefully pleated ruff, which is in the form of late no longer attached to the doublet, but is worn as a standalone fashion utensil. At this size, the shape of the collar was produced by wires and stiff linen, silk. High set Harem pants with a padded waist. Buckled shoes and stockings. On his head a little beret, a full beard. For this purpose, a long rapier.
The woman is in stiff corset bodice with drop waist. The narrow sleeves and collar are also completed by ruffles cuffs. The shoulders are padded bead. The style is worn high. She wears a Stuart hat, decorated with fine lace. The skirt is floor length and a short-term novelty at that time, in the form of the bustle or the later barrel Verdugado (guardians of virtue), bulked. She wears like the man a large ruff.
The cervical collar (also Fraise, millstone ruff) evolved as part of the clothing in the 16th Century from the the small fabric ruffle at the drawstring neck pulled in frilly collar. The ruff was usually emerge from white linen, with a curling iron tubular romped (pipe collar) and partly very expansive (hence millstone collar). Especially under the influence of Spanish fashion the the Frill is an integral part of the clothing for both men and women.
The Spanish fashion. Nobility in court dresses, 1570.
Time of the late Renaissance, the Thirty Years War, marked by the Counter-Reformation, with the associated dominance of the Spanish Baroque. Beret, cutlasses, buckled shoes, crinoline (Verdugado), ruff, gold and silver brocade.
Spanish costumes nobility, men`s court dress.
The men wears a typical element of the Spanish fashion, the short, loose-fitting cloak, called the Spanish cape with large collar. This was not buttoned and was loose over her shoulders. This he wears a waist-length jacket, camisole, which was named after its final form “goose belly”. It is closed by a central row of buttons. It was padded and formed beads on the sleeves. The sleeve cuffs are finished of frills. The slit harem pants has a high waist and is, like the quilted jacket and produced a wide hip. This he wears buckled shoes and stockings. The high cap is decorated with silk ribbon and feather. Gloves, beard, and a long rapier perfect the equipment.
Spanish costumes nobility, woman`s court dress.
The clothes of the woman meets the men’s. A stiff corset bodice with drop waist. The narrow sleeves and collar are also completed by ruffles cuffs. The slotted sleeves with long cloth ribbons, which look like a throwback to the Burgundian fashion of Houppelande. The style is worn high, given the limited range of motion. The skirt, Verdugado, forerunner of the crinoline is floor length and richly ornamented. At the end of the 16th century was that, having regard as pictured here, through a framework of whalebone and iron. In her hand she holds a fan made of feathers. Jewelry serves as a valuable, simple necklace. Under the skirt, several stiff petticoats were worn in linen, who were usually also richly embroidered. The Shiloette is a cone. The shoes, called Kothurne, were made of wood or cork allowed the only reduced movements. The collar is decorated with fine lace, and is now, with both costumes, worn as a stand alone decorative element. The hair is styled smooth and is studded with precious diadems.
French nobleman and nobelwoman 1550. French Court Dress 16th century.
The nobleman wears a typical element of the Spanish fashion, the short, loose-fitting cloak, called the Spanish Cape. This was not buttoned and was loose over her shoulders. This he wears a waist-length, quilted jacket with a mandarin collar, which was called “goose belly”. It was closed by a central row of buttons. The sleeves are occupied by frill sleeves. Harem pants with a padded waist high set. Buckled shoes and stockings. On his head a little beret and a beard. A long iron spike completes the appearance. The nobel woman is in stiff corset bodice with drop waist. The narrow sleeves and collar are also completed by ruffles cuffs. The shoulders are padded bead. The style is worn high. The skirt is floor length and richly decorated. Forward it will be kept open so that the cone-shaped, stiff petticoat, which is also decorated emerges. This was the forerunner of the crinoline (Farthingale, Vertugado, Hoop skirt). A headdress she wears an ornate bead cap, called Escoffion. She wears under the long skirt the Kothurne that shoes are made of wood or cork. The folds of the dress are over with hot iron and wire into shape.
The Spanish fashion. Late Renaissance costumes in the transition to the Counter-Reformation, early Baroque period.
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