German aristocracy around 1580 in Spanish court fashion.

German, aristocracy, Renaissance, fashion, Spanish style, court, dress
German aristocracy around 1580.

German aristocracy in Spanish style. Second third of the 16th century.

Late Renaissance in the transition to the Counter-Reformation. Baroque period.

The Spanish fashion.

The man is wearing the typical, short, loose-fitting coat, called the Spanish cape, loose over his shoulders. This, a waist-length, quilted jacket with slit sleeves, which was called “goose belly”. A carefully pleated ruff, which is in the form of late no longer attached to the doublet, but is worn as a standalone fashion utensil. At this size, the shape of the collar was produced by wires and stiff linen, silk. High set Spanish breeches (gregüescos in Spanish) was a men’s trousers in the Spanish costume of the 16th century. The trousers got their name from their shape, which looked like two balls. They were heavily padded, roundish, covered half of the thigh or reached to the knees. Tights or silk stockings and usually well padded underpants were worn with the breeches.

The Spanish breeches first spread in Western Europe and later throughout Europe. In Germany they changed into harem pants. In contrast to the harem pants, the Spanish breeches were stuffed (the harem pants hung down). At the Spanish court this type of clothing was worn with slight changes until the 18th century. Incisions were made with coloured linings for decoration. Buckled shoes and stockings. On his head a little beret, a full beard. For this purpose, a long rapier.

The woman is in stiff corset bodice with drop waist. The narrow sleeves and collar are also completed by ruffles cuffs. The shoulders are padded bead. The style is worn high. She wears a Stuart hat, decorated with fine lace. The skirt is floor length and a short-term novelty at that time, in the form of the bustle or the later barrel Verdugado (guardians of virtue), bulked. She wears like the man a large ruff.

Note:  Chaussures. Les modes de la renaissance. Costume féminin français.

The cervical collar (also Fraise, millstone ruff) evolved as part of the clothing in the 16th Century from the the small fabric ruffle at the drawstring neck  pulled in frilly collar. The ruff was usually emerge from white linen, with a curling iron tubular romped (pipe collar) and partly very expansive (hence millstone collar). Especially under the influence of Spanish fashion the the Frill is an integral part of the clothing for both men and women.

Crow, dwarf, Undine, Illustration


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