Crusaders and Outremer during the 12th and 13th century
The influence of the Crusaders in the 13th to 14th century to the French clothing.
1270 to 1350
Severity of feminine costume – Long gowns and gimps – Marguerite of Provence – “Fermaux” – Reappearance of splendour in dress – Eastern customs – The priests of fashion – Haberdashery and peacock-feathers – Female embroiderers – Taste for embroidery – Continual temptations – Earliest sumptuary laws – Furs – St. Louis’s opinion on dress – Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife – Crépine.Continue reading →
13th century clothing of Citizen, Knight, Aristocrats, the Knights Templar.
Middle ages gothic period costumes. Upper half of the picture: German Lord. German court ladies, aristocrats. German Knight family. Lower half of the picture: Italian scholar. German citizen. Knight, Lord, the Knights Templar.
Halberstadt Cathedral Museum, dalmatic of controversial origin. German, English or Oriental. 13th Century. Design with deer and centaurs. Photography around 1900-1940.
Dalmatic, a long robe with wide but short sleeves that was worn especially in the Middle Ages in Dalmatia instead of the Roman Tunica. The so-called Blue dalmatica belonged to the coronation regalia of the German emperors. As it was Levitonarium of bishops, deacons,- the liturgical garment worn in place of the Planeta or Causa, over the alb and the stole during the Ecclesiastical Fair.
The albe (from Latin alba: the white) is a product derived from the ancient tunic, ankle-length gown of white or natural linen today. With reference to the old church and its tradition alb symbolizes the baptismal garment. Traditionally worn by Catholic priests as liturgical undergarment under the chasuble, alb is regarded today as the basic garment of all those who play a role in the worship service or provide a particular service, eg, readers, communion assistants.
Cologne, Schnütgen Museum. Albe, South Germany, 13th Century.
Burgundian fashion. Woman from Siena, Italy 13th century.
Siennoise en 1300
Italian noblewoman in Burgundian fashion, Gothic period, High middle ages.
Horned Hennin, ribbons and veils. The top dress with round neckline is made of precious damask and at the edges richly decorated with gold-embroidered fabric ornaments. The long wide sleeves that reach to the hands are covered with fur cuffs. The belt is worn high on the waist. The hairline is drawn far above what distinguishes a high forehead. The round décolleté is adorned with a heavy gold chain.
Earliest times of the Carolingian period — Variety of costume in the provinces — Fashions in the Duchy of France — French taste dating from the eleventh century — Luxury increases with each generation — The dominical —The “bliaud” — Canes of apple-wood — Women in the twelfth century — Headdresses — “Afiche” — Serpent-tails — Pelisses — The thirteenth century — “Greves” and veils are in fashion — The “couvre-chef” in the fourteenth century — The skirt, or “cotte-hardie,” surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and “gauze” — Accessories — Emblazoned gowns — Various kinds of stuffs. Continue reading →
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