Church Vestments and Textiles by Margery Roberts

Sewing Church Linens by Elizabeth Morgan.

Vestments for All Seasons by Barbara Dee Baumgarten.

Bishop of Guarda, Portugal 1808.

Traditional Portuguese Bishop costume. Ecclesiastical clothing. Purple mantle of silk, lined with crimson.
BISHOP OF GUARDA.

BISHOP OF GUARDA.

THIS sketch represents the ordinary dress of the Bishops of Portugal, and bears some general resemblance to the respectable prelate, whose name is here introduced.

A purple mantle of silk, lined with crimson, and a cross suspended from the neck, are peculiar badges of episcopal dignity: the rest of the habit, consisting of a stuff cassock, with a square calotte, is common to all orders of the regular clergy.
The Bishop of Guarda, whose urbanity of manners, and unaffected hospitality, will long be remembered by those, who, during the course of the campaign, became his guests; is a member of the Pinto da Mendoça family, one of the most distinguished in Portugal. He is between fifty and sixty years of age, and was formerly Bishop of Pinhel, a more lucrative benefice, but inferior to Guarda, in advantage of situation. The Bishop’s usual residence is at his villa, on the banks of the Mondego, around which is seen the effect of his active benevolence, and well directed charity, in the neat cottages, and industrious habits of the peasantry.


In cooperation with his elder brother, the Corregidor of the province, he manifested a zeal, and energy of character, which would do honour to the best times of Portuguese history, in promoting the good of the common cause. His nephew, (a son of the Corregidor) who is one of his chaplains, and a canon of the cathedral, lives in the palace, on the mountain; a young man of high attainments, and most engaging manners.


The diocese of Guarda formerly comprised that of Castello Branco, which was formed into a distinct See during the administration of the late Marquis Pombal, The revenue of each is between twenty and thirty thousand Crusados. The Cathedral is an extensive pile of building, coeval with the town, which was founded by King Sancho the First.

Note:  Ruins of Capernaum, Galilee, Palestine. Ancient city in Israel.

Source: The Peninsula War. Sketches of the country, character, and costume, in Portugal and Spain, made during the campaign, and on the route of the British Army, in 1808 and 1809.

Continuing

Leave a Reply


Auguste Racinet. The Costume History by Françoise Tétart-Vittu.

Racinet's Costume History is an invaluable reference for students, designers, artists, illustrators, and historians; and a rich source of inspiration for anyone with an interest in clothing and style. Originally published in France between 1876 and 1888, Auguste Racinet’s Le Costume historique was in its day the most wide-ranging and incisive study of clothing ever attempted.

Covering the world history of costume, dress, and style from antiquity through to the end of the 19th century, the six volume work remains completely unique in its scope and detail. “Some books just scream out to be bought; this is one of them.” ― Vogue.com

The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World Paperback – December 7, 2021
by Virginia Postrel (Author)

From Neanderthal string to 3D knitting, an “expansive” global history that highlights “how textiles truly changed the world” (Wall Street Journal)


FASHIONPEDIA
Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

Fashionpedia - The Visual Dictionary Of Fashion Design

FASHIONPEDIA is a visual fashion dictionary covering all the technical terms from style to material to production with illustrations and infographics. It encompasses rich, extensive information and yet is easy to read. Whether you are an industry insider or a fashion connoisseur, FASHIONPEDIA is all you will ever need to navigate the fashion scene.


Textilepedia. The Complete Fabric Guide.

The Textile Manual is an encyclopaedia of textile information, from material to yarn, from fabric structure to the finishing process. Encompassing practical tips for a range of textiles and detailed visuals, this ultra-accessible manual is the perfect companion for fashion aficionados and aspiring fashion designers.


Literature

Couture: then and now Clothes define people. A person's clothing, whether it's a sari, kimono, or business suit, is an essential key to his or her culture, class, personality, or even religion. The Kyoto Costume Institute recognizes the importance of understanding clothing sociologically, historically, and artistically.